SS09: Reflections and summary.

As everyone is patiently waiting for the Women’s NY, Paris, Milan and London SS09 calendar we men are left hanging after our disappointing SS09 that didn’t end with a fashiongasmic climax. None of the shows have been astounding to the level that makes you want to rush outdoors and do cartwheels naked on the grass. Anna Wintour was bound to have left Milan disappointed.

Much of what has been created looks like a diet version of the designers’ respective AW collection. The use of dark colour and sober shades of grey, green and brown triggers a sense of fatigue as opposed to enlightenment and joy that usually associated with Spring/Summer collections.

Star of SS09

Dries Van Noten

The highly anticipated DH and Lanvin’s shows failed to evoke the sensation of butterflies in people’s stomachs with earth shaking creations. That led to Belgian giant Dries Van Noten rose to the occasion standing taller than the Eiffel Tower in France when he unveiled an astoundingly charming SS09 collection.

Losers

Louis Vuitton

Enjoying the success of his own label and what he has done for the LV women’s collection Marc Jacobs is on a steam train like motion at LV. Sadly he’s failed to stun in the world of men’s wear continuously creating tame collection suffering from a deficit in attitude and style. Having gone through and image makeover and overcoming a drug addiction Marc Jacobs need to fight his tendency of creating collection which looks like it could have been designed by Calvin Klein.

Dior Homme

Shamelessly trying to replicate old DH collection from 2006 Kris Van Assche is steering DH into an ice berg. Not only was DH SS09 pitifully embarrassing but is contains traces of design elements from Van Assche’s own line.

Gucci

It’s funny that the latest SS and AW Gucci’s collection have the same theme as their predecessors. AW07 and AW09 were amazing which a style and baroque character that should be of the liking of Faberge Egg loving Russian Billionaire who engaging in purchase of crass luxury products. At the other tip of the scale we have SS08 and SS09 which looks like what could have been the result if Gucci designed a limited collection for TopMan.

Winners

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry is associated by the beige tartan pattern usually seen on the inside of their jacket and coated around their cheaper line of bags. The second signature of the British brand is trench coats. Bailey has proven that he can comfortably design a high end collection that has a strong identity without using those two elements.

Etro

Doing something different from everyone else Etro stunned with an Aladdin styled collection with influences from Morocco and Persia. Gorgeous graphics highlighted by bright colour in shiny materials resulted in a sensual and romantic batch of outfit, though those allergic to glossy clothes might think of the outfits below as appalling.

Kenvin Ferderline’s choice: Kris Van Assche SS09